Sew Simple Sew and Sews

Sew, we had our meeting of our sewing bee called The Sew and Sews. During this meeting, we learned about our sewing machines. Although everyone had different machines, they all have some basic features. We learned to thread our needles, how to wind a bobbin, and how to clean our machine. Some tips: use compressed air to clean the machines; clean inside the bobbin compartment, use a damp cloth to clean the outside. Use sewing machine oil to lightly oil the bobbin case. One drop. Cleaning out lint and oiling needs to be done regularly to prevent malfunctions of the machine. We also learned about stich tension. Tips regarding choosing needles: If thread keeps breaking, change the needle, it could be worn, the tip damaged, or bent slightly; enough to make a difference to the machine. I explained I preferred Schmetz needles and they have a wonderful site to explain about needles: http://www.schmetzneedles.com/learning/pdf/ABC-brochure.pdf. Choosing needles will depend on the fabric and the use. I also talked about specialty needles such as Jean needles for sewing jean fabric.  Sew, then we practiced sewing, adjusting stitch length, using our backstitch on our machines, and winding our bobbins. 

Sew, our next step was learning to hand sew.  I discussed the importance of using basting instead of needles.  While it takes longer, you have more control of your fabric and you won't sew over a pin, damaging your machine.  Sew, we practiced two important hand stitches, the running stitch (basting stitch) and the back stitch, to use when having to hand sew fabric.  Before we did the stitches, I demonstrated my preferred method of threading and knotting a needle.  I found a really good you-tube video to demonstrate the technique:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlWSKUJl76M

These two images show the running and back stitch.  For this class, I recommend we practice getting to know our machines, and practice running and back stitches. 

Back Stich  -  good for hand sewing, looks similar to sewing machine stiches, use small even stitches.

Good for basting.  Use even stitches.

I include a surprise project here.  Why don't you make a pillow and use the stitches with three strands of embroidery thread to make this?  I found a really good video. 
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=simple+pillow+making&view=detail&mid=4C10A7124F3F82B0499E4C10A7124F3F82B0499E&first=0&FORM=NVPFVR&qpvt=simple+pillow+making

Why not make a pillow that says: I Love OK.  Use your basting or running stitches to stitch the letters.   Simple write them on the pillow and trace the letters with your embroiderly thread.  Use an embroiderly needle (it has a large eye) and three strands of embroidery thread in your favorite color.  Embroiderly floss comes in six strands, you simple pull cut a piece and divide it into two strands.  This is your challenge.  We meet again soon.

 

 

Sew Busy Baby

 

Sew, this has been one heck of a week.  Two days of tornadoes (Sunday and Monday), rain, lightning, hail, and more rain.  Stressful, sad, and my only escape is sewing.  Sew, I sewed.  I made lots and lots of baby clothes for two friends who are having baby girls.  I used a combination of Simplicity 2264, an old McCall's Easy Stich 'n Save M5079, and a New Look (0156) 6970. 

The McCall's little dress which I called "Strawberry Shortcake", matching panty, and sun hat were fun to sew. 

 I had difficulty lining up the rick rack on the pockets, and I could have done a better job.  But overall, it is really sweet.  I used some fabric I've had for at least fourteen years.  I also made a matching sunhat using a red print that looked nice with the strawberry print.  I lined the dress with yellow gingham.  I'd have liked it to be reversible, but the yellow gingham was much to light and the pattern showed through. 

As I was on a roll, I then used the leftover yellow gingham to make another of the same pattern, but this time I omitted the pockets, and added some homemade crocheted lace down the front with some bug buttons. It is lightweight and sassy, and is perfect for an Oklahoma summer.

My next project involved making the New Look jumper and bloomers.  I had some amazing fishy fabric that just looked fun for this.  I used large matching yellow buttons.  I didn't quite follow the instructions, so when I attached the ruffles to the legs, I was not happy with the attachment.  If I had bothered to read the instructions I would have attached them differently. 

The pattern is very easy, and also easy to modify.  It would make an adorable little dress by lengthening it a bit and making panties instead of bloomers.    I loved the pattern so much, I made it again with some adorable mouse fabric that I trimmed with grey and white polka dot.  I have to say that this one is my favorite.  Sweet and sassy and I do love little mousies very much.

 

I've added a few pictures so you can see the hat, the fabric, and the bloomers, which I modified a bit. I also used the pocket from the earlier pattern.  I added the ruffle and then used single fold bias tape to make an elastic track.  The bloomers were less ruffly than the others, but the tape covered the stitching nicely.  The grey looks really nice with the mouse fabric, don't you think? 

 

 

And finally, I made a little dress from Simplicity 2264 that I think could be an heirloom dress.  I used a fabric with bluebirds that made me keep humming, "somewhere, over the rainbow...".  I made the top in a plain white so that the dress looked just like a skirt and top.  I used fancy ribbon to trim the sleeves, pocket,  and the bottom of the skirt.  Matching panties complete the look.  This pattern appears to run a bit large despite cutting a small.  This might fit a 9-12 month old.  But no worries, babies will need clothes. 

 

Sew, my friends, I've got one more young lady at work having a baby (sex unknown), and my hairdresser having a boy in the fall.  So I will be making a few little boy things soon.  Sewing children's clothes are generally not difficult, but fiddly.  Fabrics are cute, but I like the challenge of sewing for adults.  But I would love to have this dress.

Sew "So Zo"

I follow a blog called 'So Zo', http://sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.com/, which has fabulous ideas regarding sustainability and refashioning.  I love her blog, not to mention, her dobbleganger works at the library system I work for.  She had one blog in which she refashioned a man's jean shirt into a blouse using pattern New Look 6808.  I loved the result so much, I thought I would do the same.

Alex had a cobalt blue shirt in a very light cordoroy that he never wore, and I had taken with the idea that I would refashion it.  I decided it was perfect for this project. 

Unfortunately, I couldn't remember where I put it.  After tearing my sewing room apart, searching all my drawers, closet, and fabric stash, I was folding some dark laundry, and there it was.  Apparently, it had somehow ended in the laundry bin.  What a waste of time. 

I made a collar from some leftover lace.  The only problem I had was not paying close attention to the tie, and sewing it a little too tight at the neck, giving it a little bunchy look.  But overall, I like the result and can't wait to wear it to work Mwhen it gets warmer.  I used some vintage shell buttons I got at a flea market. 

They were rust covered from the staple holding them to the card, but they came out pretty on the shirt. The hardest decision was picking the shell ones over the black glass buttons. 

"So Zo" also inspired me to not be afraid to change things.  I also refashioned a jumpsuit into a dress for a friend.  I made it as a jumpsuit (McCall's 6083) and found it incredibly difficult to get on and off unless you made it from stretchy fabric.  I had used a seersucker.  So my friend asked if I could refashion it into a short summer dress.  No problem, I just removed the added fabric in the legs,

and refit it.  The biggest problem was that I had used french seams to finish it and taking that all apart took some time.  But I think it came out really nice.  I sewed some fun buttons shaped like flowers and bugs, and added a macrame belt I picked up at a second hand shop.  I think it looks great.

I'll post a pic with my friend wearing it, because it really looks cute.

Sew until next time.

Sew Birthday!

Sew, I generally only sew for myself or children, who aren't generally fussy.  I never thought I was good enough to sew for other people.  Well, my husband kept asking me to make him some things, but I was convinced that he would laugh at what I made, or think they looked "homemade."  Years ago, I took a "flat cap" apart and remade a new one for him that he loved, but over the years, I just never thought about sewing for him.  He always shows an interest in the things I make and is a huge supporter, so I'm not sure why I felt that way.

To get to the point, I decided for his birthday this May, I would make him a summer shirt and shorts.  I viewed a shirt and shorts on a Burda men's pattern sight and even downloaded the patterns, but I'm too lazy to tape them all together to make anything.  Sew, when I found Simplicity 5581, I knew I found a pattern he would like.  I made the shirt and it realy was pretty simple.  I set in the sleeves, though because I liked the way they look when they are set in.   I chose a quilt fabric that had passport stamps all over in a nice coral and tan color.  I then found some white pique to make him a modified cargo short.  He had a pair of white tennis shorts that he loved, but he is not a fan of the longer baggy shorts Americans are fond of.  Being British, he likes his closes to be a bit more fitted.  He also has very slim legs, and most baggy shorts swallow him and look goofy.

Sew, while the shirt was very straightforward, I've never made men's shorts before.  The pattern overall was simple, but the waistband was more complicated than any woman's trouser.  I had to really play with the design to get it right.  Since I shorted the legs, I also couldn't add the side pleated pockets.  I'd kind of like to have done those personally. 

As I was fitting the shorts, my husband kept saying they were too loose, so I adjusted the waist.  I should have trusted my own instincts because they were a little snug.  He hopes to lose another inch or two, but still.  Next time, I will trust my own instincts.

Sew, there you have it, I took a day off from work and made my husband something special.  Sew hopefully, it won't be long before I do it again.  Now that I figured out the pattern, I will definitely make the shorts again, perhaps with a different fabric.  Pique is a little odd.

In between the shirt and shorts, I also whipped out another version of Simplicity 8523 out of some stretchy lace, perfect for summer.  It was easy to whip out with the serger.

Sew Mama

This post is dedicated to my mother who gave me the love of sewing.  My first memory of my mother is her at her Singer early in the morning before we were awake, stitching away at something.  She didn't have a sewing area when we were little and because of space (five kids in a three bedroom house) she couldn't leave her things out, she would have to pack everything away.  But she sewed, or knitted, or crocheted, or embroidered constantly.  If she was sitting, she was doing. 

I'm the same way now.  I can't watch TV without doing something.  I never developed a passion for knitting, but I went through my crochet phase, embroidery, handwork, needlepoint, you name it, I've done it.  But I always go back to sewing.

As a teen, my mother made her "pin money" by sewing for people.  She made nurse uniforms, cheerleader costumes, whatever anyone needed.  She never charged enough, and some of the people who downright rude to my mother.  But she endured because it was a skill she had that could give her a little independence.

We would get something special twice a year, Easter and Christmas.  I loved the things my mother made.  Beautiful dresses, suits, even coats.  I don't remember anything I owned that was purchased with as much love as the clothes my mother made me. 

I don't have a photo of my mother with me.  Isn't that strange?  I guess with five kids, it wasn't a priority, but I am told I look like my mother.  I think I share her strength of character, stubbornness, and creativity. 

When we were very young (4-5) our family was in a horrific car accident, in which my mother suffered catastrophic injuries.  Nearly every bone in the left side of her face was broken, collar bone, ribs, etc..  Requiring months of recovery, surgery, and scars.  Years of further medical issues and procedures, in the days where recovery was extremely painful.  My mother was always self-conscious of this, and worried what people would say. 

I never saw the scars.  I saw a woman who survived the bombing of Berlin, the ravages of World War II, the hatred towards her nationality (German), the struggles of being a wife of a military man, and the challenges of raising five children. 

I saw my mother re-fashion clothing when it wasn't the "in" thing to do.  I saw my mother transform my desire for dark purple velvet knee breeches and vest into reality.  I watched my mother create clothing without patterns or by modifying patterns. 

I saw my mother keep us all clothed despite periods of time with little money and growing children.  She cared for clothes with so much regard; I guarantee she has clothes in her wardrobe she has had for many years and they still look new. 

Sew, on the Mother's Day (which is tomorrow I know but I have to work) I want to remember my mother for all that she has given me and I feel blessed that I had the privilege of knowing her.  

Sew Sunday

Sew, being inspired on this issue of sustainability and wanting to add my two cents, I finally took a big leap and took some precious fabric I purchased years ago in England at a Sue Ryder shop for less that 2 Pounds.  They were curtains of this luxurious light Brocade fabric, soft, delicate with lucious yellow roses on a trellis textured background.

 Wrinkled, from being kept in a box, I was so scared to cut into it.  I decided to make a simple blouse, nothing too fancy, and then protect the seams with bias strip.  There was one area of the curtain that had frayed, so I had to cut around it.  Because of the design, I was worried that I would not be able to match the flowers or the line close enough to not look odd, but I worried for nothing. 

 The pattern I used was Simplicity 8523, view D.  Because the fabric had such a 50's, 60's feel, I wanted to add a collar, not quite peter pan, but close.  I created a collar that overlapped in front.

I didn't really follow the pattern,  I attached the sleeves in the flat way knit sleeves are installed to have a little control with the delicateness of the fabric.  It worked perfectly.  The back is a simple button closure at the neckline. 

I hope that you also like my blouse.  It was a joy to create.  And I love that it originally started as a set of curtains somewhere in England.  Until next time.



Sew Much Happening!

Sew, I've done something I never thought I would do!  I started a sewing bee with some people from work!  Yes, really, there are people out there who share my passion or want to share my passion.  I would never have had the confidence to do this but for a handful of really close friends who always encourage me and make me feel that I have something to share.  So we had our first meeting today; not a big crowd but I hope it will grow.

There were some folks who couldn't make it because of work, etc.. I would post what we discussed so those who couldn't attend won't miss out too much.  Although, I must say, they missed out on the lovely cinammon rolls I brought from the Okarche Oklahoma Tower Cafe especially for them!

We decided to call our group The Sew and Sews!  Cool, yes?  I think so.  Today, since we have a variety of skills or lack there of, we started out going over some basics.  These are only my opinion of what you need, so others might have different options or suggestions.



Show and Tell:  I brought some different items of clothing I've made over the years, some simple cotton, some fancy ribbon fabric t-shirt, a nubby voile, a brushed poplin jacket, a polyester jacket, a 40's retro skirt, and a jean skirt and pant. The idea was for the group to look at the construction techniques, talk about fabric design, and show some of my mistakes.  The idea was to show, that, no matter how much or how often we sew, you are going to make mistakes. 

What was the main lesson here:
1.  You will make mistakes.  Get over it.  Don't let fear keep you from trying.
2.  If you use patterned fabric, pay particular attention to placement of the actual design pattern.  In other words, you might not want that large cabbage rose planted on one of your boobs.  Or the stripes to not line up or line up somewhere awkward.  Or worse yet, sew one piece upside down, which I have done several times.
3.  Buy fabrics that you can care for.  Dry clean only doesn't always mean that so don't let that scare you.  You probably can still wash delicate and hang dry.  I'd avoid the dryer for those fabrics.  A lesson I try to do, but don't always, wash your fabrics before you cut, to remove any sizing, any chemicals on the fabric, and to reduce shrinkage.  You will also get a sense on how much something wrinkles and if you will need to iron.
4.  Practice sustainability.  It isn't necessary to buy new fabrics.  You can purchase fabrics and patterns at flea markets, garage sales, estate sales.  You can use existing clothing and make new.  You can re-fashion something.  For example, I am currently taking a men's shirt and re-fashioning it into a woman's blouse.  I'm all about being part of the global community and not adding more waste to our landfills.  Also, I don't want to contribute to the growing slave labor in third world countries. 
5.  Consider if fabric is a drapey or a stiff fabric because it can affect your final product.  Also look at stretch vs. no stretch when making clothing for comfort. 

Sewing accessories:

Let's first talk sewing machines.  If you are a beginner, don't buy a new machine unless you absolutely have to have one.  Borrow one, pick up one at Goodwill, a garage sale, or you might have one sitting in a closet.  You don't want to invest a lot of money into something you might not continue.  Wait to buy a better machine if necessary later when you make a serious commitment. I know many sewists who still use a machine that is 30 years old.  My serger is pushing 30 years old.  I think today it's essential a sewing machine have a straight stitch (duh), a zigzag, a buttonholer, and a zipper foot.  Other than that, you can make do.

Accessories:  Here are my go to list.  I've been sewing since I was old enough to hold a needle.  I've collected quite a bit of items.

Sew what other accessories will you need? 

Scissors:  This should be an investment.  You want a good pair of sewing scissors for fabric.  A good pair doesn't have to cost too much, you can spend a lot, you can pick up a new pair for about $40.00.  You can also buy second hand, unfortunately, you won't know if they were used for cutting other things.  The sacred rule is: NEVER USE YOUR FABRIC SCISSORS FOR ANY OTHE PURPOSE.  You also want a pair of scissors to cut your patterns, you might want a pair of pinking shears (I inherited mine), and you want a good pair of threat cutters (little scissors).  Those will help clean up the little end threads, cut ease and trim excess fabric.  Some people like rotary cutters to cut fabric, I'm just not a fan.  It's great for quilts and cutting large geometric shapes though. 

What other accessories do I find essential:  A tailor's measuring tape, tailer's chalk in blue and white (they also come in pencil form, I just prefer the chalk), a pin cushion with an emery (the small strawberry on the traditional tomato pin cushion is an emery for needle and pin sharpening).  You might want a wrist pin cushion, I just use a small condiment bowl to hold my pins.  I use large quilter's pins with colored bases for two reasons:  you can iron over the plastic end bits, and they are visible and harder to lose.  Essential to anyone who sews is the magic seam ripper aka button holer and sewist's best friend.  You will become very friendly with your seam ripper. 

 

Sew, we also talked about patterns, how to read patterns and understanding pattern sizing.  I explained the difference between ready to wear (RTO) sizing and pattern sizing.  There can be as many as three size difference between the clothes you purchase and the pattern size you buy.  RTW sizing is called vanity sizing, because manufacturers believe women can't be told the truth about their size.  Thirty years ago there was no such thing as a size 0.  It's essential that sewists measure themselves accurately and buy patterns to fit them based on their true sizing.  I went over the pattern cover and showed them to not only look at the pattern sizing, but also the finished sizing because you might want to go down a size.  It's important for you to recognize if you are long or short waisted, have a long rise, have a pear shape, a square shape, an inverted triangle, or a triangular shape.  One of our sewists is smaller on top than bottom.  When she buys patterns, she should buy to fit her top half, and we can make adjustments to the botton half.  Otherwise, she might have more alterations to do if she goes strictly by her hips.  Also, you should look at the clothes you love, notice the shape, and purchase patterns to follow those designs.  You will be happier and will reduce the alterations you might make. 

And finally, we measured ourselves.  Not so scary.

We discussed our game plan for The Sew and Sews.  We talked about our end goals, starting with making a bag, to aprons, to creating a garment.  We discussed creating a library display to show off our wears and to highlight the books our library owns for home sewing.

We will meet again in three weeks, bring our sewing machines and learn how to thread, fill our bobbins, insert needles or change feet.  We will also learn basic servicing and cleaning of the machine.  We will practice stitching.  We will also take a hand, yes ladies, with some hand sewing.   Everyone needs to learn how to do a running stitch for basting,   Or to sew by hand for those fiddly bits that the machine makes awkward.  I will be giving everyone their pattern for a messenger bag, a list for the supplies and a plan for our project.    I just can't wait.  Happy sewing everyone!

We will be making a messenger bag that has pockets, a zippered pocket, an adjustable shoulder strap.  I want everyone to know you don't have to spend a fortune on fabric.  This is a perfect project to use unused clothing, scrap fabric, jeans, anything you like.  We will learning how to make a lining, using interfacing, and to customize their bag for their personal use.  I can't wait.