Sew Much Happening!

Sew, I've done something I never thought I would do!  I started a sewing bee with some people from work!  Yes, really, there are people out there who share my passion or want to share my passion.  I would never have had the confidence to do this but for a handful of really close friends who always encourage me and make me feel that I have something to share.  So we had our first meeting today; not a big crowd but I hope it will grow.

There were some folks who couldn't make it because of work, etc.. I would post what we discussed so those who couldn't attend won't miss out too much.  Although, I must say, they missed out on the lovely cinammon rolls I brought from the Okarche Oklahoma Tower Cafe especially for them!

We decided to call our group The Sew and Sews!  Cool, yes?  I think so.  Today, since we have a variety of skills or lack there of, we started out going over some basics.  These are only my opinion of what you need, so others might have different options or suggestions.



Show and Tell:  I brought some different items of clothing I've made over the years, some simple cotton, some fancy ribbon fabric t-shirt, a nubby voile, a brushed poplin jacket, a polyester jacket, a 40's retro skirt, and a jean skirt and pant. The idea was for the group to look at the construction techniques, talk about fabric design, and show some of my mistakes.  The idea was to show, that, no matter how much or how often we sew, you are going to make mistakes. 

What was the main lesson here:
1.  You will make mistakes.  Get over it.  Don't let fear keep you from trying.
2.  If you use patterned fabric, pay particular attention to placement of the actual design pattern.  In other words, you might not want that large cabbage rose planted on one of your boobs.  Or the stripes to not line up or line up somewhere awkward.  Or worse yet, sew one piece upside down, which I have done several times.
3.  Buy fabrics that you can care for.  Dry clean only doesn't always mean that so don't let that scare you.  You probably can still wash delicate and hang dry.  I'd avoid the dryer for those fabrics.  A lesson I try to do, but don't always, wash your fabrics before you cut, to remove any sizing, any chemicals on the fabric, and to reduce shrinkage.  You will also get a sense on how much something wrinkles and if you will need to iron.
4.  Practice sustainability.  It isn't necessary to buy new fabrics.  You can purchase fabrics and patterns at flea markets, garage sales, estate sales.  You can use existing clothing and make new.  You can re-fashion something.  For example, I am currently taking a men's shirt and re-fashioning it into a woman's blouse.  I'm all about being part of the global community and not adding more waste to our landfills.  Also, I don't want to contribute to the growing slave labor in third world countries. 
5.  Consider if fabric is a drapey or a stiff fabric because it can affect your final product.  Also look at stretch vs. no stretch when making clothing for comfort. 

Sewing accessories:

Let's first talk sewing machines.  If you are a beginner, don't buy a new machine unless you absolutely have to have one.  Borrow one, pick up one at Goodwill, a garage sale, or you might have one sitting in a closet.  You don't want to invest a lot of money into something you might not continue.  Wait to buy a better machine if necessary later when you make a serious commitment. I know many sewists who still use a machine that is 30 years old.  My serger is pushing 30 years old.  I think today it's essential a sewing machine have a straight stitch (duh), a zigzag, a buttonholer, and a zipper foot.  Other than that, you can make do.

Accessories:  Here are my go to list.  I've been sewing since I was old enough to hold a needle.  I've collected quite a bit of items.

Sew what other accessories will you need? 

Scissors:  This should be an investment.  You want a good pair of sewing scissors for fabric.  A good pair doesn't have to cost too much, you can spend a lot, you can pick up a new pair for about $40.00.  You can also buy second hand, unfortunately, you won't know if they were used for cutting other things.  The sacred rule is: NEVER USE YOUR FABRIC SCISSORS FOR ANY OTHE PURPOSE.  You also want a pair of scissors to cut your patterns, you might want a pair of pinking shears (I inherited mine), and you want a good pair of threat cutters (little scissors).  Those will help clean up the little end threads, cut ease and trim excess fabric.  Some people like rotary cutters to cut fabric, I'm just not a fan.  It's great for quilts and cutting large geometric shapes though. 

What other accessories do I find essential:  A tailor's measuring tape, tailer's chalk in blue and white (they also come in pencil form, I just prefer the chalk), a pin cushion with an emery (the small strawberry on the traditional tomato pin cushion is an emery for needle and pin sharpening).  You might want a wrist pin cushion, I just use a small condiment bowl to hold my pins.  I use large quilter's pins with colored bases for two reasons:  you can iron over the plastic end bits, and they are visible and harder to lose.  Essential to anyone who sews is the magic seam ripper aka button holer and sewist's best friend.  You will become very friendly with your seam ripper. 

 

Sew, we also talked about patterns, how to read patterns and understanding pattern sizing.  I explained the difference between ready to wear (RTO) sizing and pattern sizing.  There can be as many as three size difference between the clothes you purchase and the pattern size you buy.  RTW sizing is called vanity sizing, because manufacturers believe women can't be told the truth about their size.  Thirty years ago there was no such thing as a size 0.  It's essential that sewists measure themselves accurately and buy patterns to fit them based on their true sizing.  I went over the pattern cover and showed them to not only look at the pattern sizing, but also the finished sizing because you might want to go down a size.  It's important for you to recognize if you are long or short waisted, have a long rise, have a pear shape, a square shape, an inverted triangle, or a triangular shape.  One of our sewists is smaller on top than bottom.  When she buys patterns, she should buy to fit her top half, and we can make adjustments to the botton half.  Otherwise, she might have more alterations to do if she goes strictly by her hips.  Also, you should look at the clothes you love, notice the shape, and purchase patterns to follow those designs.  You will be happier and will reduce the alterations you might make. 

And finally, we measured ourselves.  Not so scary.

We discussed our game plan for The Sew and Sews.  We talked about our end goals, starting with making a bag, to aprons, to creating a garment.  We discussed creating a library display to show off our wears and to highlight the books our library owns for home sewing.

We will meet again in three weeks, bring our sewing machines and learn how to thread, fill our bobbins, insert needles or change feet.  We will also learn basic servicing and cleaning of the machine.  We will practice stitching.  We will also take a hand, yes ladies, with some hand sewing.   Everyone needs to learn how to do a running stitch for basting,   Or to sew by hand for those fiddly bits that the machine makes awkward.  I will be giving everyone their pattern for a messenger bag, a list for the supplies and a plan for our project.    I just can't wait.  Happy sewing everyone!

We will be making a messenger bag that has pockets, a zippered pocket, an adjustable shoulder strap.  I want everyone to know you don't have to spend a fortune on fabric.  This is a perfect project to use unused clothing, scrap fabric, jeans, anything you like.  We will learning how to make a lining, using interfacing, and to customize their bag for their personal use.  I can't wait.